We are in Dambach La Ville, in the north of alsace. 11 acres of fantastic vineyards, expecially granite . Beck-Hartweg is one of the historic domaines of Alsace which can be traced back to the early 16th century. Florian and Mathilde are the 16th generation at the domaine and despite their young age (early 30s) they've already gained a solid reputation. Nowadays, inspired among others by the writings of Japanese farmer and philosopher Masanobu Fukuoka (cf. The One Straw Revolution), Florian and Mathilde allow wild plants to grow around their vines, roll them over, and create a mulch which in return increases organic matter and humidity. This is especially precious when working on poor acidic soils (granite bedrock) with dry topsoils of little depth. As we sniffed, slurped and spat, in sympathy (and in time) with the still-fermenting wines nextdoor, I asked if Florian would describe his wines as ‘natural’ (his Sylvaner/Pinot Blanc/Pinot Gris blend is named “tout naturellement“). He clearly doesn’t care much for the term because it is inexact and ill-defined and comes burdened with preconceptions. He explains instead that the house philosophy is low- or no-intervention (“We work with what we’re given”), and that they respect – and do not interfere with – the natural, self-regulating ability of the vines. By any measures that I know of, these are certainly ‘natural’ wines. What sets them apart from others of that ilk that I’ve tasted is the fact that, while distinctive – quirky even – they are eminently drinkable – not always my experience with so-called natural wines.
Great tasting a la cave and great vineyards tour. Merci Florian, toujours tres gentil
Gianluigi Carlino
foto Edy Nasti